New blacksmithing video is up today. Here are Molly and George forging a traditional Suffolk style latch bar. Suffolk latch sets were commonly used from the 17th century through the early 19th century.
Only 1 Day Left To Enter & Receive a 10% Off Coupon!
Posted by on Tuesday, May 31, 2011 in - 1 comment
Only 1 day left for the Horton Brasses Kitchen Hardware Giveaway Contest.
Wait.
Let me say it again. This time with feeling.
ONLY 1 DAY LEFT FOR THE HORTON BRASSES KITCHEN HARDWARE GIVEAWAY CONTEST!!!!
I understand this is a strange contest. If you win, you are obligated to use the hardware. And if you are in the midst of a remodel, you need to hold off on getting your hardware installed because you just might win the contest.
Pfffft. Logistics.
The reality is, Orion is planning—no…HOPING—to give away a few grand worth of hardware to someone with a boomin’ kitchen plan.
But, there’s a catch. When I wrote up the contest, Orion slipped in this caveat: 25 people must enter before the contest is legitimately on. Twenty-five! Right now there are only 8 entries. That’s 32% of the needed entries to have this thing really be on.
Orion is a man of his word. That’s how he’s able to run a small business on an old-school professional model. He can’t go back and delete the caveat from the original contest rules, even if I’ve contemplated trying to hack into the HB Blog dashboard to do it myself.
But to show he really wants to give away all this fancy new hardware, he’s throwing out a bribe, er…I mean “incentive” to get people to enter.
Enter your kitchen and you automatically receive a 10% discount on Horton Brasses hardware in addition to any other bulk discount in which you may qualify.
So, everyone wins! Even if there is not a contest.
Please take a look at the contest blog. All of the entries are beautiful representations of great taste. I’m so happy that these homeowners are sharing their kitchens with us since remodeling is one heck of an exciting time. Every picture is a great resource for future remodelers looking for inspiration and ideas.
Disguising Modern Amenities in a Victorian Remodel
Posted by on Friday, May 27, 2011 in - 1 comment
Victorian Bin Pull in polished nickel
Any Canadians in the house? May 23rd marked Victoria Day for our neighbors to the north. To celebrate, Corey at Design Kula commemorated the day with a post on Victorian sculleries. I love the picture he posted of the dish drying rack over the huge sink! His post inspired the Victorian snoop in me and I started searching other images of authentic Victorian kitchens, keeping an eye on the hardware, of course.
I stopped my scroll down dead in my tracking pad when I came across this remarkable period restoration of a Victorian kitchen in Portland. Posted on Old House Online last year, the article documents the pains Kim and Roy Fox took to get their museum-like kitchen right. Even though the hardware source is not mentioned, I knew the maker right away--Horton Brasses!
If it wasn’t for the homeowner’s desire to hide the electronic advances of their new kitchen, the hardware may not have been showcased in the photo gallery. This particular shot shows off a clever design solution. The pull hides the dishwasher’s cycle display.
Kim & Roy Fox went for period accuracy when they remodeled their Portland Victorian home. That’s why they chose Horton Brasses hardware—known for its period accuracy.
I personally have this pull in my kitchen in two different finishes—antique brass and polished nickel. It is also on the Horton Brasses website in dark antique and light antique brass. So I’ve seen this Victorian inspired pull in 4 out of 7 available finishes.
Well, now make that five.
Dark antique, light antique and polished nickel finishes. Is it just me or does the finish really transform the mood of these pulls? The dark antique looks staid, conservative and simple. Even though it is a decorative pull, I could see it in a Shaker or Mission style kitchen. Light antique is putting off a strong Victorian vibe to me. And the polished nickel is making me feel very 30’s, 40’s, 50’s; very glam Hollywood Regency.
My kitchen, my pull. Antique brass subdues the decoration, making this ornate pull an unexpected detail in an otherwise simple kitchen.
I am not sure what finish the Fox family used, but my guess is bright brass. Orion, you want to weigh in on this? What’s interesting to me is that look of the pull really varies depending on the finish.
Because of the sand cast relief design, the finish of the bright brass and polished nickel is quite dramatic. Only the raised areas are polished, so the recessed sections remain darker and non-reflective.
Universal Design for Multi-generational Kitchens
Posted by on Wednesday, May 25, 2011 in - 2 comments
We all know that baby boomers are aging and that Americans are living longer, more independent lives in their own homes. Even if you are decades away from old age, remodeling with the future in mind can prove financially wise. By implementing a well thought out floorplan now, any future remodeling may only need be cosmetic, thus saving large amounts of money with simpler cosmetic updating.
Not only are people staying in their homes longer, there is also a rise in multi-generational households. With that in mind, it is smart to consider every family member’s needs when designing that new kitchen. Universal design is enhances functionality and speaks to a growing need as the homeowning population ages. It is a definite selling point for second time home buyers of a certain age.
Universal Design Sketch-up by Linda Knapp
10 Remodeling Tips for a Multi-generational Kitchen:
1) Countertops—Vary heights so that family members of different ages can have easy access to work surfaces. Keep in mind that countertops mounted at a maximum height of 34” must have room free of cabinets underneath to accommodate someone seated in a wheelchair. Even if you are not anticipating the use of a wheelchair, design an area for seated counter work by including either bar seating or pull out cutting boards. Avoid polished surfaces that will create glare.
2) Lighting—A variety of lighting, including overhead and task lighting, will increase visibility and reduce accidents in the kitchen. Also, it is a good idea to vary the type of bulbs used throughout the kitchen since the light quality will differ. You may want use softer, traditional bulbs for overhead lighting and brighter fluorescent or halogen bulbs for under-cabinet task lighting.
3) Switches & Outlets—Position these at a level no higher than 44” and no lower than 15” off the floor to make them wheelchair accessible. These guidelines follow the Americans with Disabilities Act.
4) Flooring—Many people are traditionalist and believe tile is the only way to go in the kitchen. If using tile, opt for a textured matte tile to avoid slips. Consider softer flooring choices such as wood, bamboo, cork or linoleum. These materials can be less slippery and are also easier on the knees.
5) Base Cabinets—Think about switching from doors to drawers. Drawers allow you to pull out the contents of a cabinet, literally putting everything at your fingertips. Cabinets with doors will require you to squat down and search around, putting stress on your hips, knees and back.
6) Appliances—Refrigerators with bottom freezers are great options for children and adults in wheelchairs. Avoid over the range microwaves, locating this frequently used appliance under a counter to make it accessible to everyone. Induction cooktops eliminate the worry of family members burning themselves on a hot stove. And elevated or drawer dishwashers take the stress off the back, making loading and unloading easier.
7) Hardware—Cabinet hardware is often overlooked when designing a multi-generational kitchen but this small detail is quite important. Knobs and latches require the use of fine motor skills not yet developed in the young and sometimes compromised in older folks due to arthritis. To encourage independence at all ages, cabinet pulls prove the easiest hardware to grasp. Note that this refers to traditional pulls, not bin or cup pulls.
8) Walkways—Ample room to get around is important in any kitchen. Walkways and doorways should be a minimum of 36” in width. This will accommodate wheelchairs if needed. However, if you have 42” to spare, the added space will make a huge difference for both ambulatory and wheelchair assisted family members.
9) Faucets—Single lever faucets are easiest to adjust and facilitate a wide range of motor abilities.
10) Hire a specialist—There are ample resources available for free online, but some people may feel they need additional help. Certified Aging In Place Specialists are available nationwide for consultations to assist you in designing a kitchen with longevity.
Check out Horton Brasses selection of cabinet pulls for reproduction period hardware that will age just as well as you!
Expanding Options for Narrow Cabinets
Posted by on Friday, May 20, 2011 in - leave a comment
Going the route of custom cabinetry? Take advantage of every last inch of storage space without worrying how you will match your hardware across door fronts of varying sizes. Even some well designed RTA stock cabinets, such as Ikea’s, come in narrow widths to make the most of your kitchen space.
Whether you use choose a standard spice pullout or have your cabinet maker sneak in hidden broom storage, narrow cabinets present challenges when choosing hardware. Some people seek out mix and match hardware for their kitchen, yet a large number of homeowners desire a uniform look, using a single style pull throughout the entire room.
House Beautiful
Vertical pulls fit the narrowest of cabinet fronts. Get the look with Horton Brasses Bakes Pull, available in 7 different finishes and made of solid brass.
But what do you do when that 8” pull simply won’t fit on a 6” cabinet? Knobs are compact enough to fit on any cabinet front but for some, knobs are not an option. That is why Horton Brasses carries the Queslett and Bakes Pulls. If you want beautiful hardware that flows with continuity througout the kitchen, these pulls are a wonderful option.
top / available in 6,7,10,15 inch sizes) & Queslett (bottom)
Art of Logic
Wouldn’t those tiny Queslett Pulls look adorable on these apothocary drawers? An unexpected departure from knobs.
Moon to Moon
A salvaged library card catalog defines this quirky space. Finger bin pulls accentuate the piece. Replicate the look with distressed custom cabinetry and tiny Quesletts in the antique finish.
Unlike other suited bin pull sets that typically run from 3.5” to 8,” The Queslett runs from under 3” to over 9.” Woo-hoo! This allows a singular hardware look from appliances to apothecary drawers. And the unique look of the Queslett’s backplate sets it apart from other bin pulls.
Don’t let the catalog pic of the Bakes Pull fool you into thinking it must be mounted horizontally. No! Do a quarter turn and mount that pull vertically for hardware that will fit anywhere.
The Cabinet Factory
Ditch the knobs and up the style ante with pulls! This small kitchen is a perfect example of maximizing storage with bespoke cabinetry. Those small cubby drawers would look darling with tiny, chunky pulls dressing them up like buckles on a pair of pilgrim shoes.
Of course, Horton Brasses has nothing against knobs! Especially if your cabinet design is traditional, knobs on your tiny fronts will augment the look of ageless elegance. Horton Brasses has both simple, pared down knobs as well as more decorative styles.
Interview With a Designer: Monica Mackenzie
Posted by on Friday, May 13, 2011 in - leave a comment
When reviewing the portfolios of designers who’ve used Horton Brasses hardware, I was floored when I set my eyes upon Monica Mackenzie’s kitchen designs. Her use of painted and distressed cabinetry defines the look that many customers are striving to achieve with their remodel. I definitely wanted to interview her for the HB blog. Here we talk a lot about finishes—both cabinet and hardware. Also, I want to note that this is the second interview I’ve done in a week where the designer commented on the importance of lighting. Jot that down!
You've been designing interiors since 1999. What's your background and how did you get your start?
I have been designing both interiors and remodeling since I started a business in interior design in 1999. I started by working on friends homes when my children were small. I have always loved design and color and my business has expanded to include both interior design as well as new builds and remodeling. I now have a general contracting license and home improvement license. I have a great team of subcontractors. I often go to the Boston Design Center for inspiration and read everything on the subject.
The homes you work on are largely old houses with historical architectural elements and new builds emulating that feel. How do you manage to negotiate retaining the old charm while ramping up the function?
I work on a lot of older homes. I love the details. They often have little things that make them so special. The problem is that they are often not what people are looking for for the way they live now. I try to open the house up. The kitchens and baths usually require a redo. I usually get requests for mudrooms and pantries. I also do a lot of master bedrooms and baths.
White or wood? Do you think the white kitchen craze is a trend or will it be around for a while?
I like both the wood and the pained finishes. The white is classic but does require a bit of maintance over the years. I like to mix the cabinet finishes then everyone is happy. You can always repaint!
Your portfolio shows a mix of wood stained, white and cream painted and distressed---or maybe "weathered" would be more accurate--kitchen cabinetry. Do you feel certain hardware finishes pair better with specific paints and stains?
I think that the painted cabinets are really in style now. I like to work with unusual colors of finishes. In the older homes the oiled rubbed brass looks authentic. Other times a modern stainless or chrome pull gives the look the client is after. It really depends on the age of the home and the look we are trying to achieve.
monica’s free street kitchen illustrates the popular style of mixing wood stain and white paint.
Mixing finishes has been a hot topic on kitchen forums and our blog. Do you prefer to keep the hardware, faucet and lighting finishes uniform or do you sometimes mix it up?
I like to keep the finishes the same in kitchens I think it makes the space consistent, especially if the cabinets and counters are mixed.
How long have you been using Horton Brasses hardware? What are your go-to pieces?
I have been using Horton Brass for years, probably 10? I love the square cabinet latches, the cabinet pulls and the simple knobs.
What is it you look for when choosing cabinet hardware?
I love that with Horton Brass the cabinet hardware can be different sizes or styles but the finish will match. I look for a good size, matching hardware pieces and the shipping and availability is terrific.
If someone's remodeling a kitchen on a budget, what would you recommend they make a priority and splurge on?
I think that the overall design is the splurge. If a client wants a high end appliance that's always a splurge.
What are some of the often overlooked details in kitchen design?
I like to have a second prep sink. I like to have pull outs near the stove for utensils and oils etc. I think that there needs to be a place to relax when someone is cooking. I like a TV in my kitchen but I want it built in. Lighting is also important.
Your kitchen designs are full of texture--from the backsplash to the cabinet finish. Your School Street kitchen really showcases this. How do you create layers of tactile finishes without overwhelming the space?
The school street kitchen is great. Its an old cape but the kitchen is in a totally new space. We used old materials salvaged and custom cabinets designed for the owners who loved the distressed look. They loved to cook. The Aga is great and the teak distressed top to the island gets better with time. They are great clients who encouraged the creativity. Loved that job.
Kitchens in portfolios and magazines are staged to look picture perfect. Right now if we were to visit your own kitchen, what would it look like? Is it spic and span or do you have your morning cup of coffee sitting in the sink?
My kitchen looks clean and organized. That's because I spent a good amount of time planning it out--what I need to store as well as what my family needed the way we are now. Its on my website under affiliates if you want to take a peak.
Big Over Small : Chunky Cabinet Jewelry
Posted by on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 in - 1 comment
Seeking Out the Perfect Canvas
Twenty years ago when I worked as a salesgirl at the Gap, the store manager drilled this fashion decree into my head: big over small. She meant baggy clothes over skinny bodies, layering a given. It was, as she put it, “The Gap Look.” So it was.
Today’s fashion is a more streamlined silhouette, yet the pared down but decked out simplicity of big over small persists in how we accessorize our look. And I’m not just talking about clothing.
As lives become more complicated, the desire to minimize the white noise at home spurs the move towards clean finishes, plain lines and blank canvases that can be easily embellished with bold accents of color and texture.
Kitchen cabinetry is not exempt. Because kitchen remodeling is an expensive undertaking, and cabinets represent the largest percentage of the cost, many homeowners favor Shaker or slab style doors in white or neutral wood colors hoping these choices will transcend time and resonate as eternally stylish.
By choosing door styles and materials that make a minimal statement, kitchen cabinets become the little black dress of the kitchen—the perfect canvas for displaying chunky cabinet jewelry.
Accessorize with Style
Door styles without a lot of beading are generally less expensive than their tricked out counterparts. Also, the more detail to a door style, the more you are marrying your kitchen to a particular look. Get the look you want, but do it with something less permanent—and expensive. Just as you would oomph up a simple black dress to carry you from day to evening, dress up your cabinets with bold pieces of solid metal hardware.
This neutral white kitchen (image decor pad) makes its biggest statement with in your face brass hardware. The large cabinet latches and exposed butterfly hinges define the look.
An oak kitchen is re-habbed with Farrow & Ball paint and new hardware. (images Cottage Living). I love how large pulls are used on drawer fronts and cabinet doors, creating a unified look. The drab neutral paint color transforms the cabinets from dated to timeless, creating a backdrop for hardware that really shines. Recreate this look in your kitchen with the Bakes Pull, available in 7 different finishes.
Here we have an exaggerated Shaker style door (Image Cozette Coffman Design), yet the principle remains true—keep it simple. And that’s a good thing considering how much other stuff there is to look at in this space. Despite everything, the cabinet hardware immediately caught my eye when I first viewed this kitchen. Look at the cabinet to the right of the sink. Again, we see pulls instead of knobs on the doors but here the sizing and placement is unusual. Instead of a supersized pull centered on the door or the pull mounted vertically, a 6” pull is affixed to the door horizontally, taking the place of a knob.
If you are looking for cabinet hardware that is unlike any other, Horton Brasses’ newest additions to the kitchen line will surely command your attention. Streamlined styling, hidden screws and superior finishes will accentuate your kitchen in all the right places.
What’s Going On With That Contest Anyway?
Posted by on Friday, May 6, 2011 in - leave a comment
View the Entries!
Did we tell you that we have a blog completely dedicated to our hardware giveaway contest? Well, we're telling you now!
Visit the contest blog to peruse the entries, cast your vote and gain inspiration from the beautiful kitchens already entered. Pass on the link to anyone and everyone who might benefit from a kitchen full of fancy pants cabinet hardware. You can read up on how to enter, check out our panel of judges and even submit your own entry via email to hortonbrassescontest@gmail.com.
Contest FAQ's
Many of you have had questions about the in's & out's of the contest. Here are the answers!
· Can I enter if I already have hardware on my cabinets?
Sure! As long as you want to replace your current hardware with your winnings, enter away!
· I would like to enter but right now my kitchen is just a raw space.
So this isn't a question but rather an excuse. Pleas refer to the original contest post:
We understand that, if you are mid-remodel, the scene may be a little rough. The judges have vision, I assure you. If your cabinets have yet to be installed, you may submit floorplan elevations, pictures of door samples, etc.
See?
We've got you covered! We are familiar with how kitchen remodels go and are very understanding. Submit your floorplan and door samples. You've got five pictures to make an impression. Go for it!
Don’t even have your cabinets unpacked yet? No worries. Send us pics of what materials you are using and our esteemed judges will use their designy vision to fill in the blanks!
· I remodeled a few years ago but never loved my hardware. Can I still enter?
Honestly, and don't take this the wrong way, we couldn't care less when you remodeled! We're looking for a well put together kitchen that is going to showcase Horton Brasses Hardware. We want to see this beautiful stuff in action!
Spread the Word!
We need 25 entries for this contest to be on. As of today we only have 12% of our entry goal. Help us spread the word by posting the contest to your friends on Facebook and to your Twitter followers. Do you have a blog? Post about this contest and I will mention your blog as a contest supporter across my online stratosphere.
Visit the Judges!
Not only is there shiny hardware up for grabs, but we've assembled a cadre of shiny judges to add some fun to the contest. Do be sure to visit their sites and check out what they have going on.
Vincent Scordo shares the Italian good life over at Scordo.com. His recent posts include musings on the environment from the perspective of a first generation Italian-American, a guide to Italian Deli meats that this vegetarian took a pass on, and lots of olive oil drizzled hither and thither.
Greg Henry of SippitySup! breaks down the spring roll vs. summer roll confusion, serves up a stack of hot mustard grilled cheese sandwiches sophisticated enough to pay homage to Saveur Magazine's sandwich issue and gets regional with a review of a cookbook with the absolute most darling cover. Take a peak and tell me if Despite the guy chowing down at the table also reminds you of Steve Buscemi.
Susan Serra and her partner/daughter Kelly are creating loveliness over at The Kitchen Designer, her newly launched blog that will school you on what went down at KBIS 2011, current trends in kitchen design and a give you window into the stylings of European kitchens. Check out the blog just to see that copper patinated Liebherr fridge.
Jane F. and Allison Arnett are full of good taste over at Atticmag. There is an amazing pictorial up right now showing off a serious 19th century English manor kitchen. If you salivate over copper cookware, do wear a bib. Gaggenau's induction cooktop is on display and this thing cooks! Also on show is an entire room done over in chalkboard paint. Surprisingly, it's bright and cheery!
James Swan continues to keep his Facebook fans entertained with his daily postings of dream interiors. Yes, sometimes they are nightmares, but it is all in good fun and keeps the comments coming. His book, 101 Things I Hate About Your House, also walks the catty line while delivering fundamental and clever tips to rescue your house from design disaster--elevating it to the personal palace you so rightly deserve.
And...Orion! He's a judge too but apparently he's a bit shy.
Cutting Steel Hot
Posted by on Friday, May 6, 2011 in - leave a comment
Blacksmiths cut hot for centuries because it was quick and the tools were more easily accessible. Blacksmiths could make their own. Hacksaw blades were expensive and not easy to obtain and the only shears we’ve seen used in contemporary prints of shops were those used where water power was available or were for extremely thin metal like tinplate.
Hot cutting is done with a chisel or tool configured much like the common cold cut chisel, except the blade is much thinner and sharper. A cold cut chisel is shown to the left and next to is a hot slitting chisel, both of which are meant to be held in the hand and struck with a hammer. A handled hot cut chisel is shown next. To use this another person must be added to the forging operation either to hold the chisel or to strike it with a hammer while the blacksmith holds the hot steel to be cut in tongs on the anvil. The tool furthest to the right is a hot cut hardy, whose stem fits in the hardy hole of the anvil to hold the tool upright and secure there.
Here the hot cut hardy is shown in use.
This tool allows the blacksmith to work alone, heating the forging and resting it on the cutting edge while striking the forging with a hammer. In this case, the forging is rotated between blows. If the bar is not rotated while the cut is being made, the cut end will be sloped at an angle.
This is a half inch bar with the cut partially completed.
The final blows are struck to one side of the hardy’s edge so the hammer’s face won’t be marred by a misstrike. The final blows must have enough power to complete the cut, but not so much that the cut off piece goes flying to the other side of the shop!
This is the end of a 1 1/2 inch bar that was cut hot using a hot cut hardy tool. As can be seen, there’s a rough area in the center. We used hot cutting in this instance for making a hardy tool for the anvil.
The half-inch bar has been reheated and its end is being struck repeatedly by the hammer to dress the end, making it smooth.
This is the dressed end of the half inch bar. Dressing is required to prevent a flaw in the forging from occurring from the rough hot cut end. Several heats were used to cut and dress the stock but if we did this all the time we could probably get it down to one heat.
Cold cutting is still faster and more accurate and that’s what we do except when cutting the slot for Suffolk latches.
INSTALLING BALL CATCHES
Posted by on Tuesday, May 3, 2011 in - leave a comment
The other day I was thumbing through a copy of a woodworking magazine at the newsstand and an article on installing a ball catch caught my eye.
While I was looking at the photos & reading the supporting text for them I kept coming to the conclusion that it seemed to be a bit over thought or complicated to me.
It also brought me back to an email I received awhile back from Orion where a customer wrote him to show off a jig he made to do the same thing.
The reason for Orion sending it to me was that he was a bit confused on how it exactly worked & he was wondering if I could walk him through this.
So a few days passed & one day while on my way home, while stuck in traffic, I started thinking about both of the examples (which I do realize both work) and that there had to be a simpler way.
So when I got home, I started to mock up a small cabinet & came up with a solution that requires a small jig & a clamp. Listed below is how I went about making the jig & how to use it.
MAKING THE JIG:
Step 1: First, I cut a block of wood to the size of ¾” x 2” x 2”.
Step 2: Using my marking gauge, I divide the top across the length & width. I then rotate the block 90 degrees & make the side the same way.
Step 3: I then head to my drill press & drill a 7/16” diameter hole though the block, top to bottom, at the intersection of my marks. I then rotate the block 90 degrees & repeat the procedure.
Step 4: I then cut a piece of small plywood to be 2” x 3” & glue it to the face of my block. (I make sure that 3 of the 4 sides are flush.)
That finishes the construction of the jig.
Using this jig I can locate the hole for both parts of the ball catch: 1” in from the edge & center on my ¾” door.
USING THE JIG:
To drill the hole for the ball piece, I clamp the jig to the top of my door. Next, with a 7/16” drill bit I plow out the waste while being sure to stop at my depth mark. (In this case I’m going high tech with painters tape!)
Then for the catch piece, I just clamp the jig to the inside top of the case while making sure the jig is pushed against the edge. Using the same drill bit I again plow out the waste.
I then turn the case upside down & push the catch into place.
After flipping the case right side up, I then insert the ball part. However, I was only able to push this in so far so I had to finish pushing it by giving it a few taps with my wooden mallet.
And then I simply tested the operation by opening and closing the door to see if the catch would hold. It worked perfectly!
BONUS:
So you might be asking what was the reason for making the jig with two holes” (1 top to bottom & 1 side to side)? It was so you could use it if you happen to have a profile on the case.
Instead of clamping the jig to the top of the case, you would simply rotate the jig 90 degrees & clamp it to the side of the case while still drilling up into the top for that catch.
